S.W AND RICH HERMANSEN
Staff Writers
wine@lbknews.com
As we have argued recently, the web has opened up opportunities for talented chefs to present menus through their web sites
and reach diners directly. On-line food vendors vary from meals prepared in shared kitchens and delivered on order to homes and offices to mobile dining locations that follow crowds, such as food trucks or pop-up kitchens.
A different distribution model seems to work better for local specialty foods. For instance, empanadas, tasty fillings sealed in pastry by folding a circular pie crust over the filling, crimping together the outer edges, and baking or frying the half-moon shape. Unlike apple turnovers and fruit pies, an empanada serves as a hand-held heated entrée in a light meal, or a self-contained sandwich to go. At farmer’s markets, booths at fairs and outdoor events, and food courts in malls, customers stand in line to buy fresh baked empanadas to eat on the spot, take away to reheat or serve cold, or both.
Two entrepreneurial chefs have staked out farmer’s markets in the Sarasota area. Empanada Girl has venues at the Sarasota Downtown Farmer’s Market, the Phillippi Farmhouse Market to the South, and the suburban Lakewood Ranch Farmer’s Market
To the east. Ana’s Empanada Factory shares a Kitchen at Tamiami Caterer’s in the Rosemary District just north of downtown Sarasota but sells her product at markets well south of Sarasota: Venice, Wellen Park, and Punta Gorda. Different distribution points open on different days. Loyal customers of specialty food vendors don’t usually buy an item daily as they would coffee or croissants; more likely they will buy the specialty item weekly. These producers of empanadas bring them to customers on a regular schedule.
Fillings of empanadas vary as much as toppings of pizzas. We had a chance to visit Ana Martinez at her factory and taste several varieties of empanadas shortly after they came out of the oven. The pastry wrap has a rich, golden color and toasted butter texture and aroma. The vegetarian options included mixed vegetables and a (not vegan) spinach and feta cheese variation on Greek Spanakopita. The mushroom, onion, and cheese selection has deep, earthy tastes, and the spicy beef elevates the senses with savory flavors enhanced with the heat of red pepper flakes, cumin, and roasted paprika. Those of us who love empanadas will find many of the variations a delight. Those less familiar with empanadas will enjoy exploring a new vista of tastes and aromas.
We asked Ana about a wine that would pair well with empanadas. She quickly responded, “A Chilean Carignan”. We expected that Ana, a Chilean native, would recommend a Chilean Red, but we didn’t expect for her to name the old French variety Carignan. Where could we find that?
The answer presented itself a night or two later. While having a light supper at the Offshore Tapas and Wine Bar in the Sarasota Voco Hotel, the menu had not one but two red wines from Chile on the wine list. The 2021 Las Veletas Grenache, Carignan, and Mourvèdre Red Blend from the Maule Valley has scored a lofty 92 point rating by Alistair Cooper in the Catad’Or Latin America Wine Guide. The blend of the lighter Grenache red and the more rustic Carignan and intense Mourvèdre produces a specialty wine that favors simple, savory foods.
All of us have to appreciate the specialty food and wine producers. They bring us pleasures in dining by practicing their arts in the face of relentless efforts to limit food and drink to processed meat, spongy bread, and cola.
S. W. Hermansen has used his expertise in econometrics, data science and epidemiology to help develop research databases for the Pentagon, the National Institutes of Health, the Department of Agriculture, and Health Resources and Services. He has visited premier vineyards and taste wines from major appellations in California, Oregon, New York State, and internationally from Tuscany and the Piedmont in Italy, the Ribera del Duero in Spain, the Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale in Australia, and the Otego Valley in New Zealand. Currently he splits time between residences in Chevy Chase, Maryland and St. Armand’s Circle in Florida.
Rich Hermansen selected has first wine list for a restaurant shortly after graduating from college with a degree in Mathematics. He has extensive service and management experience in the food and wine industry. Family and friends rate him as their favorite chef, bartender, and wine steward. He lives in Severna Park, Maryland.
