Bandol: An ideal climate for Dionysian delights

S.W. and Rich Hermansen
Guest Writers
wine@lbknews.com

Nestled in a niche extending from the Mediterranean Sea to the Sainte-Baume mountain ridge, the commune of Bandol, located in the southeast of the Provence region of France, has an ideal climate and terrain for growing wine grapes. Vineyards in Bandol bask in 3,000 hours of sunshine each year, tempered by sea breezes; dry, sandy soils force vines to put down deep roots in search of moisture rich in nutrients.
The dominant red grape variety, Mourvèdre, requires the extended end of season found in Bandol to ripen properly. Vineyards in Bandol also grow lighter-than-Mourvèdre grape variety Grenache, to add berry and stone fruit tastes, and the heat tolerant grape variety Cinsault to add a floral nose and tart berry tastes.
The fabled Bandol Rosé wines derive from the “Rhône blend” of the red grapes Mourvèdre and Grenache with Cinsault. The 2022 Château de la Noblesse Bandol Rosé (13% ABV, $26) from the Bandol wine region has a 50% Mourvèdre and 25% Grenache, 25% Cinsault blend. The skins of these red grapes stay in the crush of grapes only long enough to impart a light pink color to the wine. This delicate Bandol Rosé pairs beautifully with grilled baby cuttlefish, a relative of calamari (squid) not found in the Americas but widely available in the Mediterranean coast.
The close to seventy Château vineyards in Bandol have done a good job of maintaining high quality of product and a strong brand. Bandol wines tend to sell for more than $20 per bottle. Fortunately for wine buyers on a budget, Trader Joe’s has introduced a private label 2023 Grand Reserve Rosé Bandol Lot #130 (13.5% ABV, $13) and made Famille Revoire Bandol Rosé accessible to the large $10 – $15/bottle segment of wine buyers. This wine has a more robust mouth feel than more delicate Bandol Rosé. In a blind tasting, participants favored the budget Rosé to the more expensive 2022 Château de la Noblesse.
The same Rhône blend of Mourvèdre, Grenache, and Cinsault after more exposure of the grape skins in the crush has a cult following. The Bandol red wine derives a strong base of tannins from the grape skins. These tannins make a young Bandol red wine robust. Aged for years in he bottle, the Bandol red tannins mellow and attain rich aromas and tastes of red and black fruits. The 2021 Domaine Tempier Rouge ($65) has the potential to improve with age for more than then years.
S.W. Hermansen has used his expertise in econometrics, data science and epidemiology to help develop research databases for the Pentagon, the National Institutes of Health, the Department of Agriculture, and Health Resources and Services. He has visited premier vineyards and taste wines from major appellations in California, Oregon, New York State, and internationally from Tuscany and the Piedmont in Italy, the Ribera del Duero in Spain, the Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale in Australia, and the Otego Valley in New Zealand. Currently he splits time between residences in Chevy Chase, Maryland and St. Armand’s Circle in Florida.
Rich Hermansen selected has first wine list for a restaurant shortly after graduating from college with a degree in Mathematics. He has extensive service and management experience in the food and wine industry. Family and friends rate him as their favorite chef, bartender, and wine steward. He lives in Severna Park, Maryland.