S.W AND RICH HERMANSEN
Staff Writers
wine@lbknews.com
The lore of Spanish tapas extends from the legendary 13th Century decree by
King Alfonso of Castile (The Wise), requiring food to be served with drinks to reduce drunkenness, to the practical use of small plates to cover drinks to prevent flies from sharing them. We know from experience that patrons of bars at 2AM in Madrid expect to have small plates covering drinks, as do Catalans at a bodega in Barcelona during the afternoon. We recall the stir when Chef José Andrés, founder of the World Central Kitchen, opened the tapas restaurant Jaleo on 9th Street in Washington DC. We have developed a fondness for the small plate trend in restaurants in the USA, especially if they offer a decent selection of wines.
A recent addition to the Hillview area of Sarasota has the qualities one would hope to find in an American bodega. The Alma de España indeed embodies the soul and spirit of Spain. Located in a niche within a row of bars and cafes on Osprey, it has a bar at the back, fronting the kitchen, and a side room for larger tables.
The main dining room consists of twenty small tables. It has the atmosphere of a formal restaurant with arched windows and colorful artwork. The glassware hanging above the bar has selections of polished wine glasses for white wines, more rounded ones for lighter reds such as Garnacha or Pinot Noir, and larger glasses for robust Tempranillo, Malbec, or Cabernet Sauvignon. A large display of close to a hundred wines lines the storage area above the glassware.
The visual appeal of a cate will only take us so far; happily, the tapas matched the atmosphere. The menu listed many more small plates than we could consume at lunch. Or for dinner…. We chose selections of tapas from the salad category and the heartier fare category. The ensalada de remolacha (beet salad) featured glazed sugar and dark red beets with oranges. The croquetas de jamon had a little row of ham croquettes on and topped with dabs of aloe. The pulpo had tender tendrils of octopus lightly grilled with potato quarters, ad the tortilla espanola omelet came with potatoes and microgreens. The chef and owner Elier Rodriquez and his partner Claudia Marquez, both originally from Cuba, have an impressive background in fine dining. We plan to return and try the baked oysters and paella, among other delicacies, in the future.
Claudia poured us glasses of an excellent Godello white wine and a Rueda Verdejo, both from the northeast quadrant of Spain. These wines pair perfectly with the beet salad, croquettes, omelet, and grilled octopus. We noticed in the shelves above the bar Rioja and Ribera del Duero Tempranillo reds that would hold their own with pork, beef, and lamb selections on the menu.
We should also mention the expresso coffees that Claudia made for us at the bar. For brunch at the opening time of 11AM or later, we’ll opt for the bar with the tortilla espanola or churros, depending on mood.
Alma de España may become an overbooked dining destination before long. We feel fortunate to have found this place during the first five months of its opening. We shall return.
S. W. Hermansen has used his expertise in econometrics, data science and epidemiology to help develop research databases for the Pentagon, the National Institutes of Health, the Department of Agriculture, and Health Resources and Services. He has visited premier vineyards and taste wines from major appellations in California, Oregon, New York State, and internationally from Tuscany and the Piedmont in Italy, the Ribera del Duero in Spain, the Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale in Australia, and the Otego Valley in New Zealand. Currently he splits time between residences in Chevy Chase, Maryland and St. Armand’s Circle in Florida.
Rich Hermansen selected has first wine list for a restaurant shortly after graduating from college with a degree in Mathematics. He has extensive service and management experience in the food and wine industry. Family and friends rate him as their favorite chef, bartender, and wine steward. He lives in Severna Park, Maryland.
